Pake’s Perch
Submitted by: Dana VanVeller / Vancouver, BC, Canada
Who passed this recipe down to you? Jacob Haagsma, known as Pake (PAW-kuh) to his grandkids; Pake is the Northern Dutch word for grandfather (from a province in the Netherlands called “Friesland”).
Recipe origin: Southwestern Ontario. I believe it originated with my grandfather, though perhaps it was based on food he ate growing up; he emigrated to Canada when he was 18 (after WW2).
How old is this recipe? Unknown
The story behind the recipe:
This is the quintessential dish from my grandfather. At many family gatherings throughout the summer and fall, Pake would be outside next to his electric skillet set up as a makeshift deep fryer. He’d have freshly-caught perch lined up next to an egg wash and a seasoned bread crumb mix, and be coating and frying the fish as an afternoon snack. He could never seem to get a full plate of fish going, because anyone walking by (or those of us who never left his side) would scoop up the freshly-fried pieces. We ate it at many Thanksgiving and summer picnic gatherings, but the best time to eat it was at my grandparents’ trailer at Long Point. We’d go out in Pake’s boat on Lake Eerie, fish for our catch, then watch Pake as he expertly skinned, cleaned, and deboned the fish before frying it up fresh! Nothing screams summer more than that trailer and this fish. My grandfather has passed on, but about five years ago my mom, younger brother, and I enlisted Pake’s help to record this recipe. The only written version is this one I have below, which was written on the edge of a pay stub and is not very instructive. Working from memory, and consulting with my mom, here is a more official version of Pake’s Perch.
Ingredients:
20 to 24 (2 pounds) perch fillets, skinned and washed and dried
11/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons spice mix for fish (Pake’s brand was Verstegen—the one with salt)
3 eggs
3 tablespoons water
2 cups fine bread crumbs
Lard or vegetable oil, for frying
3 lemons, cut into wedges
How to make it:
Rinse the perch fillets and pat dry with paper towel, then place on a large plate lined with paper towel.
In a medium bowl, mix the flour and fish seasoning together until fully combined. In another medium bowl, whisk the eggs with the water until fully combined. In a third medium bowl, add the fine bread crumbs.
In a deep pot on a stovetop or in an electric skillet set up outside, add enough lard so that, once melted, it will create about 1-inch of oil. Heat to 350℉ to 375℉. While the lard is heating up, set up your prep station to include the plate of raw perch, seasoned flour bowl, egg wash, bread crumbs, an empty plate to hold the battered fish, and a paper towel-lined plate for the fish once it’s fried.
Once the lard is hot, dip each piece of fish in the seasoned flour, followed by the egg wash and bread crumbs. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until golden brown, using tongs to flip the fish.
Once cooled for several minutes, squeeze with fresh lemon wedges and enjoy.
